![]() ![]() The part cooling fan is a 5015 blower type, and this creates the only real noise when the printer is running, and even then not much. ![]() The firmware on the printer is the superb JyersUI one, and it's awesome! There are three silent Noctua fans on the printer, one in the electronics compartment cooling the mainboard, one cooling the Raspberry Pi, and another on the Hemera which cools the hotend. I replaced the stock display housing (the display still has it's protective film!) and control knob with 3D printed alternatives, but will include the originals in case you prefer them instead. There are also heatsinks on the X and Y axis stepper motors. Since then I've added an E3D Hemera extruder/hotend (mounted to a purpose made aluminium bracket supplied by 3DFused, the same people who supplied the linear rails etc), a BL Touch clone automatic bed levelling sensor, a filament runout sensor, a filament spool holder with integrated bearings, a Raspberry Pi (in order to use OctoPrint), a Logitech C270 webcam for monitoring prints and for time lapses, silicone spacers under the bed adjusting knobs, an insulating pad for the heated bed, and a filament guide. I bought a brand new Creality v4.2.7 silent mainboard too. I assembled the other parts as needed, added the power supply from my previous Ender 3, and wired everything together. Carbon fibre filament was also used on the four vibration dampening squash ball feet holders. It also came with twin Z axis stepper motors and lead screws, with carbon fibre filament 3D printed mounts and fittings, and anti-backlash nuts on the lead screws. G1 X1.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.This is a Creality Ender 3 V2 based printer which has been fitted with almost every upgrade or add on you can think of! I bought it a couple of years ago as just the frame with the linear rails and X/Y axis brackets added (good quality 3DFused ones by the way, not cheap Chinese things from AliExpress or Banggood!), plus a few other bits and pieces from the original Ender 3 V2 kit that it started out as. Recv: echo: Acceleration (units/s2): P R T Recv: echo: Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): This is what I get for messing with perfection.Į3D Hemera Direct Drive kit with a V6 Hotendįilament: Sunlu 1.75 PLA Also Running Octoprint I had perfect prints before switching to this. I paid too much money to scrap this Hemera. I don’t want to have to go back to the default hotend. I am looking for someone who can give me a hand in figuring out what I am doing wrong. I was using his firmware from the start as I liked the feature it came with and never had an issue with it. I used his customer firmware maker to have the Hemera hotend changes put in. I am also running customer Marlin Firmware from the Australian guy that does nightly runs. As you can see in the picture the Temp tower sucks on all temps and the retention tower has no stringing on mostly all distances from 0.4mm to 1.4mm. I tried to run through all the calibration steps on Teaching Tech and anything I print comes out crappy. I have been having a hell of a hard time with an E3D Hemera (/w V6 hotend) upgrade for my Ender 3 V2. Have to agree I like it more… Anyway let me get to my question. ![]() I come from the Resin community so not much along the lines of tinkering and upgrading your printer as you do with FDM. ![]() I’ve only had my Ender 3 v2 for about 9 months. Hello all, I am relatively new to FDM printing. ![]()
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